Climbing Mt. Pahia on Bora Bora

This text is intended to be used as a guide to climb Mt. Pahia on Bora Bora. I don't expect anyone, except for maybe myself at a later date, will actually use this. But having climbed it 5 years ago, I failed to write any adequate instructions on how to locate the trail again. Consequently, I took a few wrong turns today when I climbed it again before I located the trail again. It didn't help that there were new land developments (either terrace farming, or plots for homes) right in the middle of where the trail used to me.

The trail starts on the side where cruise ships tender people ashore. I do not know what the town is called, unfortunately. After passengers disembark from their tenders, they will walk across a parking lot towards the main road that circles the island. If you look to the left, you'll see a pearl shop, a tattoo parlor, and a little food vendor that sells things like ice cream and beer. This store is the landmark to look for. There will be a road immediately to the left of it that goes up towards the middle of the island. Five years ago there was no sign pointing out the trail, but now I noticed that to the left of this road there is such a sign, mainly to inform people that they should only climb the mountain with an experienced guide.

I have to admit I agree with the statement. Obviously, I've disobeyed this as I've climbed it four times without a guide. But it is very easy to get lost, and it is also quite strenuous, more so during the rainy season because the whole mountain side is slick with mud or wet rocks.

But if you are the adventurous type who has faith in his or her ability to not plummet to his or her death, then venture forth!

The road takes you through a residential area. You will see shacks, a creek to your left (during the rainy season), roosters milling about, and lots of pets. Take the road as far as it goes. It terminates at a residence, but right before that home, you can take a left. 5 years ago it was grass, but now there are tire tracks in the mud as this road is or was used to develop some land beyond. Follow this road to such farmland (there will be an immediate fork off of this new road...go straight, do not turn right yet (though for all I know it may work too)).

When you get to the developed land, go to the top of the immediate plot you have arrived at (but not the highest plot). Turn right, and keep your eyes to the left to look for a trail that should be, if not obvious, then somewhat apparent. I confess my memory is already lacking on where exactly this is...I had to search for quite a while to find it today as this was different than it was 5 years ago.

You'll know you are on the trail when you come across a water bottle on a branch a few minutes up the trail. The trail should be taking you back counter-clock wise about the mountain until finally it goes more or less straight up the mountain face.

Occasionally, someone will have tied a ribbon to a tree to let you know you are still on tail. Keep your eyes peeled. The next major landmark will be the rock face. You'll have seen from the bottom perhaps 3 noticeable walls of rock going up the mountain, but the only significant one is the top. You basically go right up to this top one, and then you have to take a left. (Don't turn left too early however.) It took me about 45 minutes to an hour to get to this point, moving at a decent pace. You will also have used 3 ropes by this point.

You basically follow along side the rock face all the way to the other side of the mountain/island. Should you run into rain, this rock area will give protection from the elements, particularly on the far side of the face.

The trail goes up the backside where, with the assistance of more ropes generously left there by prior climbers, you make your way all the way to the "left" peak. This isn't Pahia. If you look at the mountain from where the cruise ships tender passengers, you'll see two peaks with a saddle in between. At this point, you will have arrived at the left peak. To get to Pahia, you have to follow the trail along the saddle. Unfortunately, you have to go down some, including going down with one rope, before you can start going up to the summit. It took me 70 minutes to get from the initial meeting of the rock face to the summit.

After the summit, the real challenge and danger begins. You have to get down. I went up after a rain shower, which I can't say is advisable. It was very slick and very difficult going. My decent actually took 30 minutes more than my ascent. And I found this trip to be much more physically draining. Maybe it is because I'm 5 years older, but I think it was due to the mud.

As you prepare for the tip, I'd advise at least 3 liters of water, as well as snacks such as energy bars, fruit, or whatever else you can put in your backpack. It may be smart to put your camera in plastic or at least wrap it in something that will absorb moisture.

You will get scratched and banged up quite a bit. Long pants would help prevent this, but it is hot and humid going, so I still choose to wear shorts. Hiking boots are recommended, although I just used cross-trainers. I'd actually consider bringing some sort of work glove as my hands are absolutely raw with all of the rope work, and grabbing onto trees and branches all the way up and down.

Enjoy your trip up, and remember to take your time on the way back down!